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How To Install An Air Conditioner In An RV, Travel Trailer, Or Pop Up Camper

Many pop up campers (also known as folding campers or tent trailers), travel trailers, truck campers, and RV's built before 1970 do not have a rooftop air conditioner. Many older home built items do not have air conditioning either.

If everything else works, the frame is dry and solid, don't let the lack of A/C stop you from buying. With work, you can install an RV rooftop air conditioner yourself.

For this article, the term "RV" will apply to all forms of recreational vehicles.

Before beginning the installation or any wiring work, turn the power off to the entire RV. Battery operated tools are wonderful, as is a portable generator. Generators may be rented from any number of DIY stores and rental companies.

Make sure you follow all safety precautions with power tools and wear the proper safety gear.

Try to work on a mild day, and take precautions for the sun. A metal roof reflects the sun's rays and heat, so be prepared. This isn't a tank-top and shorts project.

You will need:

  • Tools- screwdriver, adjustable wrenches, electrical wiring tools, metal cutting saw (or appropriate saw for your RV)
  • Wire nuts for electrical wiring (a general kit with different sizes is available at any DIY store)
  • An RV
  • An RV air conditioner of the proper size for the unit, both inside and outside units, and the guard or cover
  • A ladder (if needed)
  • Wiring to attach to the RV's power supply
  • Outdoor rated caulk
  • Drill with appropriate bits for the mounting bolts
  • A helper

Step One:

Measure your RV's roof and determine if a rooftop A/C will fit. Take note of the type of roof you have- vinyl roofs may not support the weight, and an aluminum roof may buckle.

For older metal roofs, it will be necessary to open the inside ceiling and add bracing to the frame. This will keep the roof from buckling, and the unit from being torn off by the winds while you're on the road.

Use the same type and size framing your RV already has- for example, 1-by-2, 2-by-4, and so forth.

Step Two:

Measure the inside of the RV so you can determine what size A/C to purchase. All A/C's are sized as "BTU's, " or British Thermal Units. Too large an A/C and you're wasting energy. The A/C won't cycle on and off properly, and will wear out quickly. The unnecessary weight will overtax the roof (they are heavy), and the opening you'd have to cut would be larger than the one needed. This means major repair work to install the proper sized unit. Too small an A/C and the unit would run constantly, costing you electrical bills and would burn out far too soon.

Any RV supply store, local or online will be more than happy to help you choose the right size unit for your needs.

Step Three:

The A/C will need to be at least eight inches from the edge of the sidewall. Usually, they are centered, and placed near the front, back or the center of the RV. Choose a spot away from the vent, and clear of existing wiring.

Check your unit's wiring and determine if you need a circuit breaker with an additional dedicated circuit. If your unit only has one circuit (many smaller vintage RV's do), an A/C will overload it if anything else is plugged in.

Make certain the circuit panel you purchase has the capacity to handle both the existing circuit(s) and the A/C's circuit. Either install the circuit panel yourself or have a professional do it.

Step Four:

Once you have your A/C unit, measure the mounting base. You'll need to cut the roof access hole about 1/8 to 3/8 inches smaller. Take it up to the roof and trace around it on the inside. Cut this hole out through the roof covering only. Take your time to remove the existing insulation, and cut through the ceiling only as much as you need.

Sit down and read the directions that came with the A/C unit. If anything special needs to be installed or done, make sure you don't leave that out.

Have your helper hand the unit up to you. Do not try to carry it up the ladder yourself- that's not safe. Many units weigh 90lbs or more for the outside unit alone.

Step Five:

Mark and drill the holes for the mounting bolts. Thread the bolts through the A/C base into the holes. Ideally the holes should be through the existing framing or the newly installed framing.

Caulk around the edges of the unit's base to prevent water from getting in.

Step Six:

Secure the mounting bolts, and install the inside unit according to the specific A/C model's instructions. Some A/C's will have you install the inside unit first, because the mounting bolts will thread through it , too. This adds holding power and stability to the unit while moving.

Attach all wiring -- ground to ground first, negative wires next, then the "hot" or "live" wires last. Attach the wiring to the circuit panel. Make certain the circuit panel you purchase has the capacity to handle both the existing circuit(s) and the A/C's circuit.

If a thermostat came with your unit, install it according to the manual's instructions. It will wire to the inside blower, not the main electrical circuit.

Step Seven:

Re-check your installation. Make sure all electrical wires are capped, attached to the proper wires and so forth. Make sure the mounting bolts are tight, but not crushing the framing, ceiling or the inside A/C blower unit.

Go back to the roof and attach the guard or cover according to the instructions. The manual may have you caulk around the edge of this, too, so have enough to do the job.

Step Eight:

Turn the RV's power on. Turn on the A/C and check it's ability to cool. If it's blowing cool/cold air, nothing is smoking, no smell of burning wiring exists, you're done.

Pack up your tools, return the generator you rented, and enjoy the cool breeze.

Buying an older RV shouldn't put you off- in fact, I see bargains when I see them for sale, far below the prices of many newer RV's. Some are 16 feet (weekend trailers), others are 24 through 40 feet long. All can double as temporary or permanent inexpensive housing.

Many RV A/C units cost less than a thousand dollars total. I have a friend who replaced the RV in her motor home (a 40 foot model), for less than $900- and she didn't do the job herself.

Choose Energy Star rated A/C units to save even more money.

One note, though- if you open the ceiling to build new framing, and notice the insulation is old/cracked/disintegrating, you may have another job to do. But that's another day.

Vintage RV's or travel trailers built without them either have a window unit installed in one of the windows, or their owners have one installed. This is a major project, but not out of the realm of experienced handy people.

Source: Staff Article, "How to Install an RV Air Conditioner, ", Do it Yourself Website, no date given

Source: Staff Article, "How to Replace RV Air Conditioning Units, " Trails.com website, no date given

By Tina Gallagher - Professional writer published in national magazines and online. USAF Veteran and Former Paramedic/Firefighter with over 20 years of medical experience including the health insurance industry. Educated at Uni...  

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